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Southern Foodways Symposium Puts Spotlight on Hospitality Workers’ Needs

I haven’t thought much about my restaurant experience until food writer Alice Laussade’s opening talk about birthday songs at Southern Foodways Symposium.

Maybe I was trying to forget.

southern foodways symposium

“Happy Birthday” wasn’t the only song we sang at a fast casual restaurant that I will not be naming, and probably don’t have to.

There was a song for just about anything a customer did or said or asked for.

Alice Laussade

And when I say, “we sang,” I mean…..I sang. 

I was usually the only one singing because I’m such a rule follower, even during embarrassing situations.

Despite kids pointing and laughing and adults looking confused or sometimes disgusted, I kept singing.

Not exactly fond memories.

But my love for food grew and I felt like I was in great company at this food conference, since so many attendees and speakers either work in the industry or have in the past.

Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium 2024

What I don’t love is the fact that the issues I faced as a hospitality worker many (many) years ago, are some of the same problems that workers are still facing today.

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Southern Foodways Symposium 2024 Takeaways

1. The disconnect between workers & restaurant owners

Hanna Raskin led a panel that included owners of restaurants and restaurant workers. 

Steve Palmer spoke about the Indigo Road Hospitality Group providing interest-free down payment assistance and free mental health therapy, among other benefits.

Restaurant owner panelists also discussed the importance of transparency and how they make themselves available to staff – sometimes “too available.”

Jen Hampton of Asheville Food & Beverage United agrees with the transparency but suggests that owners shouldn’t be afraid of collective action from workers.

Nor should they shy away from workers voicing their opinions about what they need and the improvements that should be made to the establishment.

Owners should view constructive feedback from workers as a sign that the workers want to stay and make things better.

Owners don’t need to feel like they are being personally attacked.

Personally, I’ve worked with organizers of community gardens and food cooperatives and I’d love to see more employee- or community-owned restaurants and food businesses. 

What is a food co-op?: Join Fertile Ground Food Co-Op to End Raleigh Food Desert

2. We cannot afford to be apolitical

The symposium took place mere weeks before the 2024 U.S. presidential election, so Raskin asked about the panelists’ involvement in politics.

As you can imagine, everyone’s favorite subject (yes, this is sarcasm) garnered opposing views.

Mickey Bakst of Ben’s Friends says that not talking about politics keeps people happy.

A lot of people clapped as a result.

I wasn’t one of them.

Preeti Waas of Cheeni Indian restaurant in Durham, NC, said that politics directly affect her and her daughter’s bodies.

Waas proclaimed, “I didn’t spend almost $100K becoming a US citizen to give up my rights.”

Preeti Waas during the Restaurants & Advocacy panel

I clapped this time.

3. More needs to be done to support and protect hospitality employees

Systemic change is needed.

In his essay, poet and food writer Gregory Emilio, details how hospitality workers sometimes have the least to give, but give the most.

Gregory Emilio

Professor Blair LM Kelley, author of Black Folk: The Roots of the Black Working Class, declares that the U.S. owes service workers a lot and that we need to support small & medium sized businesses on infrastructure for better pay and benefits. 

But what does it take to actually make this happen?

There are several organizations such as Southern Smoke Foundation who support food & beverage workers during crises.

But we need more organizations who are advocates before dire situations occur.

For example, Waas is a part of the Independent Restaurant Coalition (IRC), which drafts bipartisan bills and works to get them passed through Congress

4. Food service workers are adversely affected by climate change

A few weeks before the Southern Foods Symposium, Hurricane Helene caused an incredible amount of damage and devastation to eastern North Carolina.

Hampton reminds us that many restaurants and food businesses make the majority of their money during the holidays, which keeps them afloat during slower months.

But months later and as winter approaches, many residents in eastern NC, especially Asheville, are still out of work.

And evictions are looming, if they haven’t started already.

Ways to mitigate climate change needs to be at the forefront of conversations about building better food systems.

Mark Watson of Potlikker Capital gives keynote on building better food systems

What I Ate at Southern Foodways Symposium

This is what I ate (and drank) on Day 2 of the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium.

Lunch

Drinks

Cocktails mixed by Lily Ballance

  • Flores Mágicas: Hibiscus piloncillo syrup infused with gin, lemon and soda
  • La Catrina: Cathead Vodka infused with marigold, tangerine and orange blossom rinse

Dinner

Dinner took place at Whitaker & Atlantic, near Downtown Raleigh, NC.

Adé Carrena

  • Suya-spiced grilled beef with Béninese peanut sauce & hibiscus pickled onions
  • Black-eyed pea fritters with Béninese sauce cajou

Cheetie Kumar

Slow-poached Carolina trout with saffron tomato gravy, spice cure, leek & fennel conserva, crispy rice and cornbread

Matt Kelly

Grits soufflé with wild mushrooms

Chris Prieto

Brisket guisado over rice with tostones

Preeti Waas

Besan burfi pie

Other food conferences & events in the Raleigh-Durham area

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More learnings from chefs & restaurant employees

How Women in Hospitality Learn from Failure with MAPP & IHWSH